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Good eating: Italy


"In other markets, on other shores, the unfamiliar fishes may be vivid, mysterious, repellant, fascinating and bright with
splendid color; only in Venice do they look good enough to eat. In Venice even ordinary sole and ugly great skate are striped with delicate lilac lights, the sardines shine like newly-minted silver coins, pink Venetian scampi are fat and fresh, infinitely enticing in the early dawn." — Elizabeth David, “Italian Food,” 1954.

Elizabeth David was one of the first food critics to explore the full range of Italy's regional cooking. The foods of Italy, she reported in vivid prose, reached far beyond the simple pleasures of minestrone and ravioli to complex traditions in Tuscany, Sicily, Lombardy, Umbria, and many other regions:
Italian Food (Penguin Classics) by Elizabeth David, foreword by Julia Child (Amazon).

El Territorio de Zaguates


'The Land of the Mutts,' on an abandoned farm in the mountains of Costa Rica, is a dog sanctuary where adoptable dogs outnumber people by at least 100 to one.

Cycling: Two weeks of peddling between The Old Smoke and The City of Lights

A guidebook for the bike rider who wants a bit of adventure, Mike Wells' Cycling London to Paris: The classic Dover/Calais route and the Avenue Verte (Cicerone Cycling Guides) leads you around Paris and
London and the country roads linking the two great cities by two cycle routes: the 490km/304mile 'classic' from the Tower of London to the Eiffel Tower and the 387km/240mile Avenue Verte from the London Eye to Notre Dame. Passing through rolling countryside, charming market towns and medieval walled villages, suburban streets and country roads take you past historical landmarks, museums and iconic monuments. The daily sections -- 25 to 40 miles -- should be within the capabilities of moderately fit riders, and one direction should take less than a week, according to the publisher, meaning that a round trip, including a few days sightseeing in Paris, can easily be accomplished in a fortnight. Itineraries include directions, points of interest, elevations, and abundant maps. "A comprehensive introduction covers all the practicalities, such as Channel crossings, accommodation and what to take, and also offers a fascinating historical overview of southern England and northern France. A summary of facilities, useful contacts and an English-French glossary can be found in the appendices." Mike Wells is the author of six biking guides, including treks along the Danube, the Rhine and the Rhone.

Is Trump really hurting the travel business?


The United Nations World Tourism Organization announced last week that Spain overtook the United States as the second-most visited destination in the world (France remains number one) in 2017. The U.S. welcomed 72.9 million foreign visitors last year — down about four percent from the previous year’s 75.9 million.

"Frank Horvat. Storia di un fotografo"



"Frank Horvat: History of a Photographer" at Chiablese Hall of the Royal Museums of Turin until 2018/05/20.

Raymond Chandler's L.A.


 Get from Amazon


✓ The Raymond Chandler Mystery Map of Los Angeles by Aaron Blake (Amazon).
 This 1987 map investigates the settings of some of the best detective novels in literature. CityDig: Find Your Way Around Raymond Chandler’s Smoggy, Sultry Los Angeles by Glen Creason (Los Angeles magazine).
✓ See the map bigger.
 Also: Literary Map of Los Angeles by Aaron Blake (Amazon).

Polite Provisions : Just a Neighborhood Bar

La fuerza despierta



La Condesa, Mexico City

Peace of mind


Socrates did not blush to play with little boys, Cato used to refresh his mind with wine after he had wearied it with application to affairs of state, and Scipio would move his triumphal and soldierly
limbs to the sound of music … It does good also to take walks out of doors, that our spirits may be raised and refreshed by the open air and fresh breeze: sometimes we gain strength by driving in a carriage, by travel, by change of air, or by social meals and a more generous allowance of wine: at times we ought to drink even to intoxication, not so as to drown, but merely to dip ourselves in wine: for wine washes away troubles and dislodges them from the depths of the mind, and acts as a remedy to sorrow as it does to some diseases.

-- Lucius Annaeus Seneca, On Tranquility of Mind.

Flying and its discontents


In Full Upright and Locked Position: The Insider's Guide to Air Travel, Mark Gerchick, former chief counsel of the Federal Aviation Administration, demystifies the airline industry -- from uncomfortable seats and chinese menus of add-ons and fees to the real dangers of air travel. This is a fact-packed, engaging, user-­friendly, nuts-and-bolts survey of contemporary commercial air travel. Not for reading on the plane.

“Illuminating… The insights provided will make the turbulence a little easier to bear.”  -- Publishers Weekly

quote unquote





Between every two pines
is a doorway to a new world.

                         -- John Muir

Tarde de perros

In Mexico City, it seems like pretty much everybody has a dog, and dog walking -- it looks more like dog sitting -- is an important job.

They may be too "smart" for your own good.


"Companies like BlueSmart, Raden and Away make luggage that includes GPS tracking, can measure its own weight, and yes, charge phones. But for all those features, these pieces of luggage need power in the form of lithium-ion batteries, which are generally seen as fire risks on planes. Last year, the FAA noted that their testing of plane fire safety showed that 'current cargo fire suppression systems cannot effectively control a lithium battery fire.'"
The rest of the story:
Your suitcase may charge your phone, but that's useless if it's not allowed on a plane: Why You Shouldn't Buy 'Smart' Luggage by David Grossman (Popular Mechanics).

Follow up: Raden and Bluesmart are already gone: Smart luggage firms close because of airline battery rules (BBC News).

On The Road: America's oldest restaurants


Talk about a roadtrip!

The Union Oyster House is the oldest restaurant in Boston and the oldest restaurant in continuous service in the U.S. The doors have always been open to diners since 1826.



These eateries are local legends; some are national treasures: The Oldest Restaurant In Every State by Hannah Doolin (Delish)

da da da dum

Beethoven's 5th Symphony premiered in Vienna on Dec. 22, 1808.

Dans le port d'Amsterdam



Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui chantent
Les rêves qui les hantent
Au large d'Amsterdam
Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui dorment
Comme des oriflammes
Le long des berges mornes

Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui meurent
Pleins de bière et de drames
Aux premières lueurs
Mais dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui naissent
Dans la chaleur épaisse
Des langueurs océanes

Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui mangent
Sur des nappes trop blanches
Des poissons ruisselants
Ils vous montrent des dents
À croquer la fortune
À décroisser la Lune
À bouffer des haubans

Et ça sent la morue
Jusque dans le cœur des frites
Que leurs grosses mains invitent
À revenir en plus
Puis se lèvent en riant
Dans un bruit de tempête
Referment leur braguette
Et sortent en rotant

Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui dansent
En se frottant la panse
Sur la panse des femmes
Et ils tournent et ils dansent
Comme des soleils crachés
Dans le son déchiré
D'un accordéon rance

Ils se tordent le cou
Pour mieux s'entendre rire
Jusqu'à ce que tout à coup
L'accordéon expire
Alors le geste grave
Alors le regard fier
Ils ramènent leurs bataves
Jusqu'en pleine lumière


Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Y a des marins qui boivent
Et qui boivent et re-boivent
Et qui re-boivent encore
Ils boivent à la santé
Des putains d'Amsterdam
D'Hambourg ou d'ailleurs
Enfin ils boivent aux dames

Qui leur donnent leurs jolis corps
Qui leur donnent leurs vertus
Pour une pièce en or
Et quand ils ont bien bu
Se plantent le nez au ciel
Se mouchent dans les étoiles
Et ils pissent comme je pleure
Sur les femmes infidèles

Dans le port d'Amsterdam
Dans le port d’Amsterdam



In the port of Amsterdam
There's a sailor who sings
Of the dreams that he brings
From the wide open sea
In the port of Amsterdam

There's a sailor who sleeps
While the river bank weeps
To the old willow tree

In the port of Amsterdam
There's a sailor who dies
Full of beer, full of cries
In a drunken town fight
In the port of Amsterdam
There's a sailor who's born
On a hot muggy morn
By the dawn's early light

In the port of Amsterdam
Where the sailors all meet
There's a sailor who eats
Only fish heads and tails
And he'll show you his teeth
That have rotted too soon
That can haul up the sails
That can swallow the moon

And he yells to the cook
With his arms open wide
"hey, bring me more fish
Throw it down by my side"
And he wants so to belch
But he's too full to try
So he stands up and laughs
And he zips up his fly

In the port of Amsterdam
You can see sailors dance
Paunches bursting their pants
Grinding women to porch
They've forgotten the tune
That their whiskey voice croaked
Splitting the night
With the roar of their jokes
And they turn and they dance
And they laugh and they lust
Till the rancid sound of the accordion bursts
And then out of the night
With their pride in their pants
And the sluts that they tow
Underneath the street lamps
In the port of Amsterdam
There's a sailor who drinks
And he drinks and he drinks
And he drinks once again
He'll drink to the health
Of the whores of Amsterdam
Who've given their bodies
To a thousand other men
Yeah, they've bargained their virtue
Their goodness all gone
For a few dirty coins
Well he just can't go on
Throws his nose to the sky
And he aims it up above
And he pisses like I cry
On the unfaithful love
In the port of Amsterdam
In the port of Amsterdam

Perk

Living on Earth may be expensive, but it includes an annual free trip around the Sun. -- Ashleigh Brilliant

Budget tips

Bikes in Los Angeles' Griffith Park cost only $1 for an hour of use, compared for example to the walk-up fee for the Metro or Santa Monica bike-share systems, which each charge about $7 to use a bike for an hour.

Rental bikes now available in Griffith Park — and they're a steal by Meghan McCarty Carino (KPCC)
(photo: John Gabree)